A Memorable Journey in Hunan
Introduction
Last autumn, driven by an insatiable desire to explore, I decided to visit Hunan and Henan as I had yet to set foot in these two provinces while having traveled to most others. For this Hunan trip, I specifically targeted Zhangjiajie and Fenghuang Ancient Town. The mesmerizing mountains in Zhangjiajie gained worldwide fame after being featured in the movie Avatar, and the character Xiaocui in Shen Congwen’s novel became a symbol of nostalgia for many.
Day 1 – 2: Changsha and Shaoshan
I chose high – speed trains for the whole journey to enjoy the scenery along the way. Departing from Hangzhou, passing through stops like Yiwu, Jinhua, Shangrao, and Nanchang, I finally arrived at Changsha South Station after ten stops.
After checking into the hotel, I took the subway to Orange Isle. To my surprise, the subway station was full of advertisements for stinky tofu. My friend was overjoyed because stinky tofu is her favorite, but I refused to try it again after my unpleasant experience in Nanjing.
As the sun was setting, the statue of the great leader became more distinct against the backdrop of the orange glow. The island was filled with ripe oranges. Standing on Orange Isle, where the great leader once wrote the famous poem Qinyuanchun·Changsha, I could almost feel his passionate emotions. The poem describes the beautiful autumn scenery of the Xiangjiang River and the vibrant youth of the era. Even though it was not yet the time when the mountains were completely painted red, the clear blue river was still captivating.
As night fell, we went to Taiping Street, one of Changsha’s bustling night markets. From afar, we could see the crowded market and smell the enticing aroma of various snacks. We tried traditional Changsha snacks like tangyou baba, which is made of glutinous rice flour and sugar, and tastes sweet and not greasy at all. My friend finally got to eat her beloved stinky tofu, and this time, the smell wasn’t as strong as I expected. We also had delicious sour and spicy bamboo shoots and crayfish at a small restaurant. After that, we wandered around the market with a cup of soy milk in hand.
The next day, I went to Shaoshan to visit the former residence of Chairman Mao. The house was large with many rooms. Outside the house, there was a pond, half of which was crystal – clear and the other half was covered with lotus leaves. The square in front of the residence was filled with students receiving patriotic education.
Day 3 – 4: Zhangjiajie
Taking the world’s highest outdoor elevator (326 meters), I entered the world of Avatar. Zhangjiajie National Forest Park, the first national forest park in China, is a wonderland created by quartz sandstone over billions of years. The strange – shaped rocks, some round, some pointed, some large, some small, and some covered with greenery while others were bare, seemed to compete with each other in growing upwards.
In the forest with extremely high oxygen levels, I felt like I had truly stepped into the fantasy world of Avatar. The Jinbian Stream in the park is home to many monkeys. The old monkeys are very agile in snatching things, while the little monkeys are timid but run extremely fast. It was really cute to watch the little monkeys, but it was a pity that the old monkeys always snatched the food from them.
Then I visited Huanglong Cave, a typical karst cave with an underground river. Sitting on the boat, I listened to the sound of the flowing water, which seemed to come from the sky. The colorful stalactites and stalagmites inside the cave were the result of millions of years of accumulation. The most valuable stalagmite in the cave was estimated to be worth one hundred million yuan.
In the evening, I watched a performance about the charm of western Hunan, including a folk performance of corpse – driving, which was truly shocking.
Day 5: Tianmen Mountain
Tianmen Mountain is the highest mountain in Zhangjiajie, with its main peak reaching 1518.6 meters. Driving along the winding mountain road with ninety – nine bends, my friend, who usually sleeps on the bus, was too nervous to close her eyes. After taking a series of escalators, I finally reached the mountaintop. From there, I could overlook the whole city of Zhangjiajie, with the Lishui River flowing through it.
The famous Tianmen Cave, which looks like a huge door in the distance, is quite far away and can be reached by climbing 999 steps. The mountain road with ninety – nine bends is like a white ribbon dancing on the mountainside, a testament to human engineering. There is also a platform for wingsuit flying, and I really admire the brave people who dare to take that leap.
Day 6: Fenghuang Ancient Town and Back to Changsha
When I arrived at Fenghuang Ancient Town at nightfall, the stilted houses on both sides of the Tuojiang River were brightly lit. The sound of the flowing water of the Tuojiang River was like the gentle strumming of a zither. Walking along the riverbank, I listened to the sounds of the night, imagining how Xiaocui in Shen Congwen’s novel used to wait and long for something here.
The next day, I took a boat on the Tuojiang River. The reflection of the stilted houses in the water was like a beautiful painting. An old fisherman sat on the bow of a boat, fishing leisurely, not caring about the passing boats. The white pagoda in the distance was our destination. The ancient town, with its rich history and beautiful scenery, made me feel a deep sense of nostalgia.
After leaving Fenghuang, I returned to Changsha. I spent the day visiting Hunan University, Yuelu Academy, and Aiwan Pavilion. Yuelu Academy has a history of over a thousand years, and the famous line “I love the maple forest in the evening; Frost – covered leaves are redder than the flowers in spring” is said to be the origin of the name of Aiwan Pavilion.
I also visited the Hunan Museum to learn about the development history of Hunan. The exhibits there, including the tiny “three – inch golden lotus” shoes, were really eye – opening. In the afternoon, I found a cozy bookstore and spent a relaxing time surrounded by books.
Changsha is a paradise for food lovers. There are so many popular local snacks and dishes. The famous stir – fried yellow beef is a representative of Hunan cuisine that has gained international recognition. I was sure that I would come back to Changsha just for the delicious food.
During this trip, I not only enjoyed the beautiful scenery but also felt the profound history and culture of Hunan. It was an unforgettable journey that left me with countless precious memories. And as I was on the high – speed train to Zhengzhou, Henan, I realized that I had traveled to 33 provinces, autonomous regions, and municipalities in China (excluding Taiwan due to travel restrictions). This journey made me appreciate the vastness and beauty of China, and I was deeply touched by the simple yet profound love shown by an old couple holding hands throughout the trip. Life is short, and we should cherish every moment and appreciate the ordinary and beautiful things around us.
